We had it easy!  That TUG is a beast!  We need to do a walk-around and share your beautifully restored and historically important vehicle with this community!

Pierre Huard Make it happen!  We would love to see you.

You have me laughing Jay!  It is really hard to be a recovering crack addict when all your friends are rolling in with 55 gallon drums of ammonia and baking soda! 😂  Even Mat....who started off as the voice of reason....Pat D got to him....The slat is a beauty....#123,518.  March 02, 1942....mostly complete and a very easy restoration project.  It does not have the correct engine, but most of the other difficult goodies are there.  The brakes are all locked up - we need to get them freed up and then we can figure out where in the cue it fits.Looking forward to see you in Oskhosh by Gosh!  Airplanes and OD....a perfect vacation destination!Look forward to chatting more about the octane/dwell/timing - I caught a rash of $#$$$ from the "gurus" for these comments.  You will see this episode - we played with a timing light...a nearly impossible tool to use on the WW2 jeep but it looks like it will prove the point.Thanks for the support and the laughs!

Sounds like a great trip Dave - would love to come see you and participate.  My bride and I are looking at the calendar - that weekend is open so we are going to do a little planning.  Will make a call shortly. 

Thanks Carmen!  Blast cabinets are so fantastically useful for restoration work but it seems like you have to do a lot of experimenting to get everything just right.  Looking forward to seeing your Weasel on the road!  Are you bringing it to Gilbert?

Greetings Scott!  I having been doing a bunch of research on this - in particular trying to find a good reference for why 21" is cited as optimal for the L134.  The books say 17"-21".  I will definitely do a segment in the next episode sharing what I have learned.  I sure have a lot of science projects to do these days!😂

Thanks for sharing - great story!  There is nothing more satisfying than making these repairs.  The diagnosis is a fun challenge - then you get do the work - sometimes things you have never done before.  Learn a few new things, gain a little more appreciation for all of the work and engineering that went into making these machines work...and winning the war.  You had to feel like a million bucks when that thing fired up and ran like a champ!  Nicely done.

Andrew Lang I keep telling my wife we will all be heroes when all this old junk saves us in the zombie apocalypse!😀

Ha!  We definitely believe in enjoying this machines Andrew. 😀  Patina is a beautiful thing when it is honestly earned!

You are correct that parkerizing solution is good for any ferrous metal.  We have used it on Garands and various cast carb parts.  Works beautifully!Since the base of the carburetor is disassembled, there isn't too much to go wrong here.  Your best best would be to make a wooden plug and just block off each end.  You could make one for the idle mixture screw too.  This should prevent the majority of the solution from getting inside of the base.  The only hole we should be worried about is for the idle mixture screw and it is pretty large and tapered - pretty hard to imagine it being affected.  One of the carbs on one of ours jeeps was reparkerized this way (no plugs) and it works fantastically.  No issue.  Just block off the ends to be safe and you will be fine.  On the Weasel carb, there was one machined bore for a vacuum accelerator pump - we were careful to block that one but not crazy so.