Patrick T.

Branchville, NJ, United States

Steve G Beautifully restored by a well-known shop here in the states. Not instructed to fix....so maybe DOA...or something else like a cable or the gears in the t-case...?

Steven B. The manual says to "drag"...but I find that I can put enough torque on the nut to get the wheel to lock up...but if I push on it just a little bit...it breaks free and then no drag. You can then tighten it more and the same thing happens....That 50 ft/lb - 1/6 number is the recommended value for the later jeeps. Same basic hubs so you done good!

Steve G Great info...I was not aware of that - thank you! I will look through the early manuals and see when they changed that....

Pharquar It liked to have beaten me too! Center punch, drill with 1/4" bit, then carbide bit on an angle grinder and carefully remove enough to where you can tap the shaft up (brass drift) from the bottom. Once the shaft moves...you will be able to see the remains of the pin and knock/pick it out. Full blown PITA!

07 Sep 07:32

Ben S. I have always bought them from Big Flats Rivet Company, but they went out of business...and their website appears to have been taken over by the virus crowd.McMaster sells dome head rivets - look like the right animal for Willys style...if you want proper Ford style for your GPW...you will need to grab a collet and put them in a lathe and turn them...plus modify the rivet set...all doable!

Reply

Holly Ha! It looked so easy on the Internet! I always filled the t-case before I reinstall.....forget, ate 90 weight. Yummy.

Steve Thrasher Funny you mention that...the owner of this jeep always removed the battery...because of slow draw. I am betting, after going thru all of the wiring, that this was the culprit! TY!

07 Sep 07:24

Steve G Appreciate the feedback! Yes....getting on and off of LI is a THANG! NYC driving with a trailer.....not for the faint of heart.

07 Sep 07:22

Jay T. You are the best Jay! Hope all is well.