JOISY GREEN SALAD baby!  Thanks Jay!

I don't know who has that information, but I think there are several things in the works that will result in that information arriving in the hands of a good steward. The MVPA is definitely working on collecting this type of information and ensuring that it is preserved and presented for future restorers.

I have been party to one tub removal...indeed a pain in the arse. I like the looks of the new SGI tubs....pretty reasonable at $1200 too. That is probably a great way to go - particularly for the "second" trailer out of this lot. I am probably going to be dropping the frame and the MBT trailer at a local sandblaster soon to get this process underway.Thanks as always for watching and for your support and comments!

Cheers Robert. The strap from the rear mounting bracket on the starter runs to the bottom side of the motor mount - so directly to the frame. The battery negative is running down to the frame, right near the weld on the battery bracket, so there is a solid and close connection between the two. From memory, the early Fords grounded the starter with a strap from the starter to the generator mounting bracket and then to the frame/motor mount.  I do this on every jeep and it really helps with the starter speed.

HMMMM....I think I know a guy!

Believe it or not, there are two fire extinguishers handy...one under the pile of oily rags and the other properly hanging by the door....🫣I do cringe putting these videos together....working on being better and appreciate the call-out...!Gas welding is seriously the best. The more I do it, the more I like it. Trailer floors sooon....transmission rebuild too....

Thanks Jay! We did do a leak down test...don't recall the exact results, but they were pretty consistent across cylinders and "in the green". Rings could be here, but still leaning valves. Think next steps are to pull the manifold and valve covers...I can check lash and do a "wiggle test" to see if the valves guides are obviously worn. If they are, that is a pretty straightforward fix. If not, I am probably going to go right to the engine stand and expect to replace rings...plastigauge bearings, etc.As for the crew....I have been working on this Weasel...tracks & engine "on the side"...and wanted to make this video.😀  Dennis is so camera shy that he was happy to stay out of the limelight!😂

Fair question. Practically, it is easier to just rebuild the engine when you don't know the condition. To your point, once the engine is disassembled, where are you going to stop? For a complete but not exhaustive rebuild, you are looking at $2k for machine work minimum plus around $1500 for parts and that is if you are doing the assembly work. Around $6k now for a complete rebuild in most parts of the country. The other alternative is to get the engine running and see what you have. Between a compression check, leak down test and oil pressure, you can get a pretty good sense of what you have. Disassembly is half a day...so even at $150/hour shop rate, you are ahead of the game if the engine just needs a little valve work or new rings to get the engine back to serviceable. Remember that Weasels don't typically see that much use, so getting this engine back to 85% or so, no smoke, for less than $2k is a deal!

Thanks Robert...interesting that you say that. I have a set of points on a distributor that for the life of me, I can't get to work. They look fine. I wonder if this is the problem. It is depressing that we can't make quality parts like this anymore. That said, I guess the innovators are working on going to space and electric cars!  

Trying to upscale this joint!

Thank you Jay. It is truly an honor to spend times with these guys. They always inspire me to be better - that generation had a sense of service and country engrained in them we really have rarely seen since.