Thanks Samuel!  Welcome aboard!

You are so welcome Andrew.  We all get so much satisfaction "reinventing" the wheel... seems like so many of the tips and tricks of working on these old machines are getting lost as the guys who grew up with them pass away.  The manuals are mostly great, but you sure learn a lot in the field, working and testing.  Enjoy!

We cleaned everything in ultrasonic, then I bead blasted everything.  The metal needs to be 100% clean.  The brass (aluminum) is not affected by the parkerizing solutions so you can leave the plug in place.  I don't think most of the kits come with replacements for those plugs in particular so unless you are sure, I say leave them.  It is a cool process - you are going to love it.

You are welcome Kent!  Thanks for being here!

Thanks!  Glad you and Maria enjoyed Weare!I appreciate the insights re online comments...must wear my online "armor".  I heard a guy say some folks want to get taller by cutting off other people's heads....rings true!As for electronic ignition, I have been doing some research and am probably going to pick up a set to play. There is no question that electronic ignition offers finer tuning/fewer tradeoffs.  Easy starts and better advance curves so you get more power.  The programmed duty cycle is higher so folks have better luck replacing vintage coils with the "new" high output coils made by the electronic points manufacturers.  Not a cheap proposition at about $280, but....cool I suppose.I am thinking this is one of those things where there is no "right" answer.  I enjoy navigating with a map and compass when GPS does a fantastic job with zero skill required.  I think I get to be a "better operator" broadly because of skills like these, but maybe I am just a dinosaur!

You are very welcome!  I am pretty sure that this particular Sears model cannot handle 24 volts.  If you start looking on Ebay, you will find several commercial varieties with 24 volt capability.  To my knowledge, 24v was never common except military so you may end up having to find a military version.

I was not aware of the M151 coil overheating problems.  Definitely worth checking.  Turns out the TM 10-1513 has the dwell at 47 degrees for the L134 - later corrected to 42 degrees.  The duty cycle at 42 degrees is 47%.  Running the dwell to 47 degrees would up the duty cycle roughly 10%....which was probably pushing those coils and causing points to burn prematurely because you had to set the point gap significantly under the .020 spec to get that dwell.  Love the well meaning machine shop! Bet that owner was scratching his head a bit!  Turns out that there were two versions of the Champion 6 flywheel (thanks Howard)...and this one is for a car with a driver side starter.  O well!

We will get some better images and I will post them here.  The manual has the orientation correctly.  For some reason, the jeep layout makes more sense and also works better.  This one is a little sloppier but it does work correctly now.

We will be sharing all of the information in this week's episode including measuring on a jeep.  The TM 10 says .020 point gap and 47 degrees dwell...but this was later corrected to 42 degrees.  This works out to a 47% duty cycle for the coil and it appears that the original writer of the TM just got a little confused between dwell and duty cycle.... 

Appreciate the information Howard!  I usually don't worry about it either - you really can't use a timing light on a Weasel or a Jeep for that matter so its really isn't important.  That being said, I wanted to play with the timing light a little and see what I might learn.  I have a couple of beat up Weasel flywheels - will be checking them this weekend to see what, if anything I learn.