Patrick T.

Branchville, NJ, United States

Replied on OD!

05 Sep 18:26

100% correct.  You think you have it just "right" - then you paint it and all of the blemishes appear.  We made progress today, but I still have a bunch of work to do on this tub to make it pop!

18 Aug 11:47

I am a big fan of phosphoric acid...pretty mild stuff that generally does a great job. The area in question has been treated with phosphoric....but is still discolored. In my limited experience with leading, the metal has to be totally bright and shiny or it won't take. The flux will clean a lot of it up - the oxidation/residue bubbles up and you can wipe it off with a damp rag leaving bright "tinning" - but I am concerned here that there is too much. I don't like muriatic acid...nasty stuff but it does clean rust up quickly.....
Thank you for the kind words Neil. It was a great day - lots of work accomplished, challenges accepted, met and overcome and we ended up more or less getting done what we set out to do. Pretty outstanding! I look forward to another one ;-)
Thank you Scott. Indeed - the "secret" not secret is that about 90% of the battle is showing up and working hard ;-)....then its all about enjoying the ride!

Sorry Robert!  I am still trying to master this technology...thought I had it set for no passcode....will get it fixed for the next one!  Apologies!!

29 Jul 09:05

Good morning Neil. I added a 5/16" spacer under the front feet...which allows you to slide the seat back enough because of the angle of the inner fender well. You sit slightly higher (not good for me at 6'3" because the top of the window obstructs my view). It required a notch in the stabilizer bracket for the MG mount and relocation of the rock guard bolts (should be captive, but were not in this case). Not a bad way to do it.

28 Jul 10:24

Thanks Nick. We may need to talk about seat making and canvas!

28 Jul 10:23

Indeed! You saw me tying the little cotton rope. I have never been able to install the clutch fork before installing the transmission - there is insufficient clearance (for me) and I knock it off while installing. So....I install the transmission and get everything sliding in...meaning input shaft is into the pilot bushing and then leave the transmission approximately 1 inch from the bell housing. Then, I install the fork (with the cotton rope loosely tied so butter fingers doesn't make the project last another hour)....put the end that receives the cable in first, use a long screwdriver to gently pry the throwout bearing forward until it touches the clutch...and you can just slide the fork in and feel it settle onto the ball. I leave the rope, put the bolts in the transmission and get the cable and clutch cross shaft installed (so there is a little tension on the fork) and then reach in and wiggle the rope off......I promise the video will show it all...when I get it done....hmmmmmmm
A beauty, right! Now I just need a Scout Car :-) It was a fun project.... even if it took me 6 months to get to....always interesting to understand how these old machines are put together. Gives you a real appreciation for the incredible manufacturing feat that was US production in WW2. Unbelievable. I continue to be sufficiently frustrated by current manufacturing practices, that I would love to figure out a way to start making great parts. Amazing to me that you have to check tolerances of newly manufactured parts or risk having to do something twice because the new part is so out of tolerance so as not to function.
Appreciate it Howard! I am definitely ready to get back to Weasels very soon.....plus winter is right around the corner!