Sorry Robert!  I am still trying to master this technology...thought I had it set for no passcode....will get it fixed for the next one!  Apologies!!

Good morning Neil. I added a 5/16" spacer under the front feet...which allows you to slide the seat back enough because of the angle of the inner fender well. You sit slightly higher (not good for me at 6'3" because the top of the window obstructs my view). It required a notch in the stabilizer bracket for the MG mount and relocation of the rock guard bolts (should be captive, but were not in this case). Not a bad way to do it.

Thanks Nick. We may need to talk about seat making and canvas!

Indeed! You saw me tying the little cotton rope. I have never been able to install the clutch fork before installing the transmission - there is insufficient clearance (for me) and I knock it off while installing. So....I install the transmission and get everything sliding in...meaning input shaft is into the pilot bushing and then leave the transmission approximately 1 inch from the bell housing. Then, I install the fork (with the cotton rope loosely tied so butter fingers doesn't make the project last another hour)....put the end that receives the cable in first, use a long screwdriver to gently pry the throwout bearing forward until it touches the clutch...and you can just slide the fork in and feel it settle onto the ball. I leave the rope, put the bolts in the transmission and get the cable and clutch cross shaft installed (so there is a little tension on the fork) and then reach in and wiggle the rope off......I promise the video will show it all...when I get it done....hmmmmmmm

A beauty, right! Now I just need a Scout Car :-) It was a fun project.... even if it took me 6 months to get to....always interesting to understand how these old machines are put together. Gives you a real appreciation for the incredible manufacturing feat that was US production in WW2. Unbelievable. I continue to be sufficiently frustrated by current manufacturing practices, that I would love to figure out a way to start making great parts. Amazing to me that you have to check tolerances of newly manufactured parts or risk having to do something twice because the new part is so out of tolerance so as not to function.

Appreciate it Howard! I am definitely ready to get back to Weasels very soon.....plus winter is right around the corner!

It is absolutely insane that with access to all of this incredibly precise technology, we can't manufacture much correctly these days? We did better with manual machinists! How can that be? I may have to pivot ShopTime™ into a philosophical exploration of the art of making......:-) I know, I know, back to the shop!

Apologies Howard - I am definitely dragging this one out! By August....we will be working on Weasels!!!

Appreciate it Scott! I use a dab of grease....insert in to the T18 with the grease holding it in at an angle towards one of the t84 shift rails...will usually slide right into position.... ...but of course there are days!

Thanks Todd. Indeed, trying to preserve this knowledge for posterity! The cross transfer issue is real, but not such a big deal that you have to use sealed bearings. I don't have them in my '43 USAAC MB....and don't have any problems. I have been using sealed bearings in most of these rebuilds just because it removes a potential problem, but I don't feel particularly strongly about it.