Patrick T.

Branchville, NJ, United States

Holly Ha! It looked so easy on the Internet! I always filled the t-case before I reinstall.....forget, ate 90 weight. Yummy.

Steve Thrasher Funny you mention that...the owner of this jeep always removed the battery...because of slow draw. I am betting, after going thru all of the wiring, that this was the culprit! TY!

07 Sep 07:24

Steve G Appreciate the feedback! Yes....getting on and off of LI is a THANG! NYC driving with a trailer.....not for the faint of heart.

07 Sep 07:22

Jay T. You are the best Jay! Hope all is well.

Steve G The army printed so much great information during that era. I have not read it in depth, but I have definitely looked up some stuff in it. This work definitely takes some time to do correctly....I am almost finished with this jeep...next week will update everyone on total time and parts used to repair back to new.

Steven B. Thanks Steven. Feedback welcome and I will try to make sure I don't cut too much stuff. In this case, I assumed that folks new about the wheel bearings etc...I should never assume and there is almost always a few little tips that can be shared...like the fact that people don't usually tighten their front bearings enough...and easier ways to bend over the lock tab....👍

As for 90 vs 140, I usually use 90 wt, but I don't think it matters very much. The 140 is slightly thicker, but I have not had any trouble keeping the steering boxes dry...always replace the bushings and ream them correctly...there is not a lot of tolerance there and with a new seal, they seem to stay nice and dry.

Steve G I can't tell if you are messing with me or serious....? 😜The G503 TMs state GO (gear oil)...same stuff that goes into the transmission and transfer case. 90 wt gear oil. This info is in several spots including the Lubrication Order in TM 9-803 and also in the rebuild section in TM 9-1803B. Cheers! Patrick

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22 Aug 06:24

Ben S. I made the bucking bar. The rivet gun is a commercial one. It is not as controlled as riveting with a hydraulic squeezer, but less tooling and inexpensive. There is a little art in making nice looking rivet heads, but the good news is - you can fail, drill the rivet out and have another go!

I have another frame to do later this fall. I will take a deep dive into riveting when we do.

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Christian A. The Willys versions are replaceable from the top. Not sure where you are (Switzerland?)....Peter Debella has the correct ones in the US. I have replaced them with the cover off-little finicky but possible. I believe the Willys ones have to be flared out...I made a crude spreader and used a bolt....probably can find a picture somewhere. 

I have fixed a GPW too...but don't remember how the GPW's are attached and whether they are the same style. think they are a little different and much easier to install...like flat tabs bent over maybe? They might be spot welded too. which is a little harder, but you drill a hole where the spot weld should be and plug weld them from inside the tub. If you have a TIG welder...it is really easy. 

If you have your cover off, post a picture and I can be more helpful.

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