The occlusion on the distal side of that windshield frame would drive me nuts, you might look at Thiokol polysulfide rubber for rubber on metal or anything else for that matter, It was used for gasket material on aircraft carriers deck plate seams and the space rocket seals, sticks to anything forever we used to use it in boat building, fun to watch as always

Couple of thoughts on the L134 engines, neoprene rear main seals are problematic because some were made to the wrong specification and caused a fitment issue resulting in seized rear main bearing, I would only use a trusted brand and never an unknown, when installing pistons. It's easy to slip a piece of 8" rubber vacuum hose over the end of the connecting rod studs to help line up with the crankshaft and prevent marring of the bearing surface, also, orientation may be best remembered to place the piston t-slot towards the cam and the oil squirter away from the cam, hope the template for timing marks on the flywheel reaches you before you install it. Cheers, scott

Wish that 506 popped up here, would have snapped it up too

In my experience, different brands of crinkle paint gave different results, the best that I found was the Tempo Paint brand

Patrick Tipton you could have called ; )

Do the "angles" of the cam engagement on the weasel bands have to be in synch for fine tuning?

Patrick, what a great video, lots of information over multiple topics / vehicles. Inspires me to look for a weasel project, will need to practice on my negotiating  skills with the head of  the finance department ( aka wife). Peter Fuerst is a wealth of information and has greatly helped me with research on several projects. His family has been collecting, restoring, and persevering military vehicle since the 1960's. As to the oil line issue on Pat's GPW if my memory serves me correctly here are the things to consider 1) USA Flare adapters  are available in SAE or JIC, (they have different angles, the jeeps used SAE part #WO- 384569 at the block.  2) The MB-GPW short rubber oil line WO-A1198 used a coupler part # WO-A1456 to connect to the metal line WO-A1450. The CJ's eliminated the coupler by changing the fitting on the end of the rubber oil line, so it looked like Pat's GPW had a CJ rubber line on it. It might be helpful to look at the illustration I did  in Ron and Dean's catalog .

Great background on the BC- 611, have done some markings for them for others. Let me know if I can help you with your project. Have some ideas for the battery case, cheers scott

Prairie oysters

Tell us more about the vacuum reading, what is the optimum reading for an  L 134, and are you taking that reading at the venturi, port or manifold location?